Dropsy of Aquarium Fish
Synonyms:
Bloat, Malawi Bloat
Symptoms:
Protrusion of scales, distended abdomen, pop-eye
Not all symptoms however will appear at the same time. It must be noted there are various causes of this issue so steps must be taken that the issue is properly diagnosed in order to rectify the actual cause of this issue.
Description:
The problem with this issue is that there are a number of "potential" causes therefore making it very difficult to determine the appropriate steps to be taken to correct the issue.
Care must be taken in diagnosing the actual issue. Usually, a necropsy (post mortem examination) is the best route to enable you to correct the issue before your other fish may end up getting victimized by this issue.
The following so far are known causes of this issue:
1. Internal parasites
The presence of some internal parasites in the abdominal area of the fish and possibly allowing the harmful bacteria to infiltrate the blood vessels can cause quite a lot of damage on the tissues and subsequently kill the fish.
2. Cancerous tumors
3. Excessive protein intake (especially with lack of fiber thereof)
4. Viral infections
5. Internal bacterial infections, usually a resulting secondary infection from external parasites
Aeromonas hydrophila, Flavobacterium columnare and Pseudomonas sp. are often responsible for this issue. This happens mainly after a primary issue was able to take its toll on the fish. Resolve the primary issue first, usually parasitic, before this resulting secondary infection.
If the cause is bacterial, the swelling typically comes on pretty rapidly. If swelling is gradual then one or more of the other potential causes are more likely. Unfortunately, treatment is most often useless at this point due to the advanced state of the disease process. When the illness, whatever the cause, has progressed far enough to cause internal swelling, the concomitant internal damage is usually too extensive to be repairable.
6. Infrequent water changes or sudden temperature drop
7. Polycystic kidney disease (PKD for short; resulting renal damage especially by a parasite, Hoferellus carassii which commonly affects goldfish but not koi)
8. Accumulating organic matter (nice breeding ground for parasites especially the parasite HC mentioned above)
Treatment:
Romet B
The latest research has shown that if the disease cause is bacterial and if the disease process is caught early enough, treatment with Romet B, a broad spectrum antibacterial, may be effective when used concurrent with an increase in water temperature to 84-86ºF for 2 weeks minimum.
BE CERTAIN to maintain HIGH OXYGEN LEVELS during such treatment since at these temperatures, water holds significantly less oxygen at these higher water temperatures. One of the suspected bacterial precursors to the disease process -- Aeromonas, is killed at these temperatures.
Erythromycin
Feeding foods soaked in ERYTHROMYCIN will kill the second suspected bacteria, Mycobacterium. In rare cases popeye has been found to be caused by Edwardsiella etarda. This is found only in fish that have been bred in outdoor ponds -- the functional bacteria in this case is carried by frogs. While fair to good results in treatment have been found by feeding Romet B., even better results have been found using injectable chloramphenicol or amakacin. This is best done by your veterinarian.
If parasites are a known cause, treat for them first for 3 days increasing the temperature to 86ºF as fast as possible.
Epsom Salt
Concurrently add 1/8 teaspoon of EPSOM SALT -- per 5 gallons of water or 1/4 teaspoon per 10g. Epsom salt may help reduce the internal pressure caused by the swelling. Extremely good aeration is necessary here due to the use of such high temperatures.
Metronidazole
Experienced Directions by Oddball
1. Remove carbon/resins from filter.
2. Perform a 30-50% water change (reduces free-floating bacteria population)
3. Add salt (teaspoon to a tablespoon per gallon) to aid the fish's osmotic regulation processes.
4. Treat with 250mg/20gallons of Metronidazole (Flagyl)
5. Leave for 3 days and do not feed.
6. After 3 days, perform another large water change.
7. Replace the salt.
8. Add full dosage of Metronidazole.
9. Wait another 3 days. During this phase, the bloat should be decreasing in appearance. In large fish, the water may take on an ammonia odor from the high volume of urea the fish should now be producing due to reducing the bloat and recovering renal activity.
10. 3rd day, another water change. Also, replace the salt and redose the metronidazole (full dose). If the fish looks to be well on the road to recovery you can offer a small feeding each day.
11. Another water change on the 3rd day. No meds but, I'd recommend the salt. You should be clear now.
This is the treatment I use on my africans, puffers, and my lungfishes/polypteridae. Knock on wood that it's worked every single time.
Feeding Metronidazole
Recommended dosage when combined with foods is 250mg of metronidazole per 25g of foods. Best mixed with gel foods.
Other Treatments:
Oxolinic acid, injectable antibiotics such as Baytril and Fortaz
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