Arowana Drop Eye Treatment

 What Is Drop-Eye, and How Can You Prevent It?

To start off, I want to state that drop-eye is not a disease because it can't be spread or caught. Drop-eye is the condition that causes an arowanas eye(s) to look down. Some arowanas get very light DE, e.g. the eye is slightly angled down, while there are some very extreme cases in which the eye looks as if it will fall out at any given second.

There is currently nothing that can prevent or cure DE. The only "cure" is to put your arowana in a huge pond, but this procedure has not been proven and may not work considering that wild arowanas have DE too. It has also been said that floating ping pong balls in your aquarium will solve DE as your arowana will look up at them. However, your arowana will be interested in the balls for all of 10 seconds and will then go back to doing what it always does; it might even be hazardous if you have a big arowana that can swallow the ping pong ball. In short, there are no proven cures for DE as of now.

Which Arowanas Are Most Prone to Drop-Eye?

Silver Arowana: The silver arowana is the first arowana that people think of when DE is mentioned. There has yet to be a picture of a silver arowana without DE over 20", and DE typically starts developing after the arowana hits 16".

Jardini & Leichardti Arowanas: Jardinis and Leichardtis are both Australian arowanas; they are not the same species but will be grouped together for this post. Jars & Leis do not develop DE as often as silver arowanas, but the majority of them do after hitting 16"-18".

Asian Arowana: The Asian arowana has a very low chance of getting DE. DE typically only occurs in bigger Asian arowanas (24" or larger), and is rarely, if ever, found in a smaller Asian arowana.

African Arowana: African arowanas cannot or will rarely ever get DE. There has yet to be a photograph of an African arowana with DE.

Black Arowanas: Like the African arowana, the black arowana cannot or will rarely ever get DE. To my knowledge, there are few, if any, photographs of black arowanas with DE.

What Causes DE?

So here's the important question: If there are no cures for DE, then what causes it? There is no definite proof as of now to answer this question as we still have no idea what causes DE, but we do have many theories.

Below is a list of the most common myths & beliefs on how DE is formed. There are probably many more beliefs & myths, but there are far too many of them, thus only the most common ones will be listed. I will refer to each belief by number after listing them.

Beliefs:

DE is caused by excess fat.

DE is caused by head trauma.*

DE is the result of tank reflection.

DE is caused by strong light.

DE is the result of the arowana looking down.

DE is caused by genetics.

Meaning:

DE is caused by an arowana eating too many fatty foods, e.g. feeder goldfish. As a result, the fat builds up behind the eye and pushes it down thereby causing DE.

DE is caused by an arowana hitting the sides of the aquarium too hard. The trauma and/or shock from the impact loosens the eye from its socket, and the arowana develops DE as a result.

DE is caused by the aquarium reflecting light. The light reflects into the arowana's eyes and causes DE.

DE is caused by strong lights. The arowana is bothered by the light thus it has to look in a different direction, so it looks down and DE develops.

DE is caused by an arowana looking down. Regardless of the cause (light, food, etc.), when the arowana looks down, it starts to get used to this behavior and eventually this behavior becomes permanent thus it develops DE.

DE is caused by genetics.

What Doesn't Makes Sense?

If DE is caused by fatty foods, then why do only some arowanas get it? Why can't we prevent DE by feeding lean foods if it is caused by excess fat buildup? Why don't black arowanas or African arowanas get DE even if you feed them feeders?

If DE is caused by head trauma, then why would Asian arowanas be less prone to developing it than silver arowanas? Why would they have DE in the wild if there is really nothing for them to ram their head into in the wild?

If DE is caused by light reflections going into the eye, then why can't it be cured by simply turning off all the lights and not letting any light get to the arowana?

If DE is caused by the arowana looking in a different direction due to lights, then why can't we just cure it by turn off all lights and wrapping the tank in black?

If an arowana gets DE by looking down, then why can't we just take away all factors that make it look down?

If DE is caused by genetics, what makes most, if not all, silver arowanas get DE while only a selected number of Asian arowanas able to get DE?

What Makes Sense?

When you think about it, when humans gain weight, they get bigger and bulkier. If an arowana worked the same way, then there could be fat build up behind the eyes thus pushing them out.

As popularized by movies, someone gets hit in the back of the head, and their eyes come pop out, so this may also apply with an arowana when the arowana rams into the tank glass. This would also explain why silver arowanas and Australian arowanas are more prone to developing DE than Asian arowanas. Consider the fact that silver arowanas and Australian arowanas are skittish arowanas and will dart when they get scared (which is very often) and is not surprising if they hit the side of the aquarium when they dart; Asian arowanas are more calm and do not get scared as easily thus this behavioral difference explains why Asian arowanas are less prone to DE. African arowanas are the calmest out of the arowanas which means that they will rarely dart into the side of the aquarium thus they rarely ever have head trauma.

Lights are harmful, especially to the naked eye. If human eyes can be hurt by light, the arowana eyes might also be the same.

It is a basic reaction that you either block your eyes from it or move your eyes elsewhere when something is shot at your eye. Arowanas have nothing that can shield their eyes, so they would need to look elsewhere.

Humans have habits and so do fish. If we start to slouch for a long period of time, then we will become accustomed to it; the same can be said for an arowana looking down.

Genetics would explain why silver arowanas are very prone to DE while black arowanas are virtually immune to it even though they are closely related. This would also prove why you cannot prevent or cure DE.

Freshwater Fish Diseases Part 8 ( Swim Bladder Disorder )

Swim Bladder Disorder

Symptoms:

Limited signs of bloat though usually no physical damage is found, fish struggles to balance itself sometimes going “belly up” due to lack of proper buoyancy

Causes:

Often indigestion with goldfish, blood parrot cichlid and “balloon” strains becoming more vulnerable to the disorder rather than most fish species, bacterial infections, damaged swim bladder, the use of floating foods which when ingested allows entry of air to the digestive system, congenital or development causes, birth defect, sudden trauma from sudden changes in water conditions or failure to acclimate the fish properly.

Causes can be difficult to determine although possible causes are often leaned on the use of floating foods, indigestion and damaged organs by assumption. Genetics also play a role in this issue. It has long been argued that floating foods should never be used at all especially for goldfish. It is in the best interest of the safety of the fish that sinking foods be used instead of floating foods or try to squish the foods until they sink.

Updated version: The ongoing debate regarding the use of floating foods has been stretched further that the use of foods that primarily composed of starch-based ingredients has been pointed out. After further analysis by those who keep goldfish, it was found that the bacteria lining the digestive systems are also one of the culprits contributing to buoyancy issues. Although the goldfish has no enzymes to digest the starch, the bacteria make up for the lack of enzymes but in return, produce gas which when trapped in the GI tract, can cause buoyancy issues. Most fish get "floaty" despite the switching of food products from floating to sinking and this can easily be pointed to the starch ingredients found in the food.

Treatment:

1. High fiber diet and fasting.

Switch to foods with high fiber content. In this case, most fish fail to expel wastes due to the foods clogging the digestive system especially with air trapped inside. Fasting for a few days or weeks also helps dislodge the foods from the GI tract.

2. Antibiotics

This one is very tricky. There is no telling how the fish became "floaty" and it could be bacteria or virus causing the issue if the food diet is not an issue. Administer only if you are sure this is the issue. A lot of viral infections are resistant to treatments and in this case, the fish may need to be destroyed.

3. Gel Foods and Acidophilus

It has already been pointed out in most cases starch is the common cause of buoyancy issues with goldfish. Despite it being digested by the bacteria, the bacteria also produce gas and while this is not an issue with streamline bodied fish, most fish have a rather compressed GI tract where the air is easily trapped. The use of Lactobacilli acidophilus through incorporating it in gel foods help quell the gas trapped in the GI tract. It is likewise recommended that starch based foods be avoided completely and switch to other foods that do not contain starch such as yeast, corn, etc.

Unfortunately, there is no cure for most cases where this disorder is involved although in some cases, the fish can recover depending on the cause of the disorder. Fish that suffer from this disorder due to sudden trauma from improper acclimation usually will never recover at all. In this case, it is recommended to destroy the fish. 

Freshwater Fish Diseases Part 7 ( Dropsy , Pop eye )

 Dropsy of Aquarium Fish

Synonyms:
Bloat, Malawi Bloat

Symptoms:
Protrusion of scales, distended abdomen, pop-eye

Not all symptoms however will appear at the same time. It must be noted there are various causes of this issue so steps must be taken that the issue is properly diagnosed in order to rectify the actual cause of this issue.

Description:
The problem with this issue is that there are a number of "potential" causes therefore making it very difficult to determine the appropriate steps to be taken to correct the issue.

Care must be taken in diagnosing the actual issue. Usually, a necropsy (post mortem examination) is the best route to enable you to correct the issue before your other fish may end up getting victimized by this issue.

The following so far are known causes of this issue:
1. Internal parasites
The presence of some internal parasites in the abdominal area of the fish and possibly allowing the harmful bacteria to infiltrate the blood vessels can cause quite a lot of damage on the tissues and subsequently kill the fish.

2. Cancerous tumors
3. Excessive protein intake (especially with lack of fiber thereof)
4. Viral infections
5. Internal bacterial infections, usually a resulting secondary infection from external parasites

Aeromonas hydrophila, Flavobacterium columnare and Pseudomonas sp. are often responsible for this issue. This happens mainly after a primary issue was able to take its toll on the fish. Resolve the primary issue first, usually parasitic, before this resulting secondary infection.

If the cause is bacterial, the swelling typically comes on pretty rapidly. If swelling is gradual then one or more of the other potential causes are more likely. Unfortunately, treatment is most often useless at this point due to the advanced state of the disease process. When the illness, whatever the cause, has progressed far enough to cause internal swelling, the concomitant internal damage is usually too extensive to be repairable.

6. Infrequent water changes or sudden temperature drop
7. Polycystic kidney disease (PKD for short; resulting renal damage especially by a parasite, Hoferellus carassii which commonly affects goldfish but not koi)


8. Accumulating organic matter (nice breeding ground for parasites especially the parasite HC mentioned above)

Treatment:
Romet B
The latest research has shown that if the disease cause is bacterial and if the disease process is caught early enough, treatment with Romet B, a broad spectrum antibacterial, may be effective when used concurrent with an increase in water temperature to 84-86ºF for 2 weeks minimum.

BE CERTAIN to maintain HIGH OXYGEN LEVELS during such treatment since at these temperatures, water holds significantly less oxygen at these higher water temperatures. One of the suspected bacterial precursors to the disease process -- Aeromonas, is killed at these temperatures.

Erythromycin
Feeding foods soaked in ERYTHROMYCIN will kill the second suspected bacteria, Mycobacterium. In rare cases popeye has been found to be caused by Edwardsiella etarda. This is found only in fish that have been bred in outdoor ponds -- the functional bacteria in this case is carried by frogs. While fair to good results in treatment have been found by feeding Romet B., even better results have been found using injectable chloramphenicol or amakacin. This is best done by your veterinarian.

If parasites are a known cause, treat for them first for 3 days increasing the temperature to 86ºF as fast as possible.

Epsom Salt
Concurrently add 1/8 teaspoon of EPSOM SALT -- per 5 gallons of water or 1/4 teaspoon per 10g. Epsom salt may help reduce the internal pressure caused by the swelling. Extremely good aeration is necessary here due to the use of such high temperatures.

Metronidazole
Experienced Directions by Oddball
1. Remove carbon/resins from filter.
2. Perform a 30-50% water change (reduces free-floating bacteria population)
3. Add salt (teaspoon to a tablespoon per gallon) to aid the fish's osmotic regulation processes.
4. Treat with 250mg/20gallons of Metronidazole (Flagyl)
5. Leave for 3 days and do not feed.
6. After 3 days, perform another large water change.
7. Replace the salt.
8. Add full dosage of Metronidazole.
9. Wait another 3 days. During this phase, the bloat should be decreasing in appearance. In large fish, the water may take on an ammonia odor from the high volume of urea the fish should now be producing due to reducing the bloat and recovering renal activity.
10. 3rd day, another water change. Also, replace the salt and redose the metronidazole (full dose). If the fish looks to be well on the road to recovery you can offer a small feeding each day.
11. Another water change on the 3rd day. No meds but, I'd recommend the salt. You should be clear now.

This is the treatment I use on my africans, puffers, and my lungfishes/polypteridae. Knock on wood that it's worked every single time.

Feeding Metronidazole
Recommended dosage when combined with foods is 250mg of metronidazole per 25g of foods. Best mixed with gel foods.


Other Treatments:
Oxolinic acid, injectable antibiotics such as Baytril and Fortaz

Freshwater Fish Diseases Part 6 ( Cloudy Eyes )

 Cloudy Eyes

Symptoms:
Eyes appearing to have cloudy white or grey "haze" that may cause blindness.

Causes:
Poor water quality, malnutrition, severe stress, overproduction of slime coating, cataracts, old age

Treatment:
I don't usually recommend the use of antibiotics. Frequent water changes are strictly necessary to improve water quality. It will usually clear up on its own if the water quality has improved. Be sure to provide your fish varied diet to improve its resistance against diseases.

Freshwater Fish Diseases Part 5 ( Hole in the Head )

 Hole in the Head (HITH)

Synonyms:
Head and Lateral Line Erosion

(1)Water Quality
Get your water quality/chemistry perfect, NH3-0, NO2-0, NO3- 0/20ppm,
check your filters & clean'em if necessary (reduces alot of NO3), gravel vac & PWC, do small PWC's (25%) every other day.
Just about everyone will agree that bad water chemistry and HITH go together like apple pie -n- ice cream...

(2)Diet
Feed a well balanced and varied diet* (See below).

(3)Vitamin Supplements
Add liquid vitamin supplements to all food and vary their diet.
Soak or load everything you feed the fish with vitamins until cured and watch your water.
Vitamins that you add to your tanks water are worthless (IMO).
We use "Vita Chem", our fish get it regularly.
This particular brand is available at most on-line retailers and at better LFS's 

(4) Supplementary treatment
I would add a dose of salt to the tank, this encourages slime-coat production and gill function amongst other things.
Also a dose of Melafix and Pimafix, these have been known to help healing and prevent secondary infection.

(5)Temperature
Gradually increase your tanks temp to aprox 80'-82'f.
Increased temp increases metabolism which can influence the immune system thus possibly speed healing.

(6)Medicate
Alot of folks blame Hexamita for HITH and thus treat for it with medications, BUT, studies have been done showing that Hex (and others) is/are a secondary infection/s (Whether or not Hexamita plays a key-role with HITH infections is controversial).
You need to do what "You" feel is right and correct after researching this for yourself, google "HITH causes prevention and cure" or some such, and visit Cichlid specific forums for more info.

Some folks also think that filter carbon dust plays a role...
Carbons role is controversial.

Some folks also think that stray electrical currents are to blame...
Stray electrical currents role is controversial at best.

It seems there are no absolutes as to the cause, but just like ICH there are many ways to treat it and proponenets/opponents of each treatment.

I say again though...
Perfect water quality and a varied nutritious diet supplemented with vitamins.

Freshwater Fish Diseases Part 4 ( Fin Rot )

 Bacterial Fin Rot

Symptoms

The fins are frayed and getting shorter. Edges are whitish.

Causes:
Overpopulation, severe stress especially on transit, untreated injuries, poor water quality and poor maintenance are the main causes of fin rot. Fin rot can occur in connection with columnaris, fungal overgrowths, lesions and as a secondary infection to parasite infestations. Fish begins to have difficulty swimming due to the damaged fins.

Treatment:
Broad spectrum antibiotics, frequent water changes are a must to improve water quality

Freshwater Fish Diseases Part 3 ( Fish Leech )

 Fish Leech (Piscicola geometra)

Symptoms:
Extreme lethargy, paling or darkening of colour, fish leech can be seen attached to the fish's body

Description:
Fish leech, in comparison to fish lice and anchorworms, are true parasites. They bite into the fish and feed off the fluid and tissue causing severe damage, finally leading to certain death if left unchecked.

As Dieter Untergasser had previously stated in regards to the subject about the Spring Virosis, fish leeches, along with other blood-sucking parasites, serve as vectors in the transmission of the disease, Spring Virosis.

According to Duncan Griffiths, while the leech is a true parasite, it differs from anchor worm and the fish louse in one major aspect: Piscicola geometra does not need to live on the koi, it merely attaches to the host to feed and then, once gorged, it leaves the host and returns only to feed. They are very adept swimmers, and if you study them before you nuke them they can be seen targeting their host from across a pond and swimming quite strongly to their victim.

The leech is also oviparous and produces eggs. Like Argulus, a leech has to leave the host to perform the egg laying function in the weeds or on the pond bottom or sides. The complete life cycle can take up to 30 days, the most common route of infection is via untreated plants introduced to the pond and birds, very rare in incoming fish.

Fish leech measures several centimeters in length and can be seen clearly attached to a fish.

Treatment:
Masoten, Malathion, salt dip, Sera Cyprinopur

Removing fish leeches by pulling is usually not recommended as it can lead to injury to the fish.

1. Dimilin Powder
The only known method of killing this parasite, without killing the fish is DIMILIN POWDER which can be used safely at any water temperature and has an action of sterilizing the adult and larval stages of this parasite which insures that all eggs produced, after the application of Dimilin, will not hatch.

Method: Dimilin Powder at the rate of 1 gram per ton of pond water. Measure out the quantity required and mix in a plastic bucket with pond water ensuring that the powder is dissolved then add to the pond in the previous manner. A second dosage may be needed to ensure that the life cycle of the anchor worm has been halted. After this second application the dead adults, which will still be hanging from the fish, can be removed using tweezers but making sure that the hooks, as well as the tail of the anchor worm are removed and then apply a proprietary topical dressing to prevent a secondary infection.

2. Sera Cyprinopur
Follow the instructions accordingly. Use Sera Baktopur to treat the wounds of the fish after the anchor worms have been pulled out. When pulling anchor worms out of the fish, firmly grasp the tweezers near its base where it is burying to the skin and quickly pull it out.

3. Coumaphos
Coumaphos is an extremely dangerous substance so this may be best administered by mixing one gram on a twenty liter bucket and grabbing at least a liter which makes up for a 5% solution for every 150 gallons of water.

This particular treatment may be best avoided however and try safer options such as dimilin instead.

4. Jungle Anchors Away
Change 25% of the pond water before use.

Use one teaspoon (5 grams) to 40 US gallons. Maintain strong aeration during treatment. Clean measuring device before every use.
Content treats 4,520 US gallons. If needed, safely treat up to three times. Wait six days between treatments. Change 25% of the water before each treatment. Remove activated carbon during use.